Inverness Travel Adventure: Patrick's Rock and Railroad Detours

Hello my adventurous friend!

I have exciting news! Lately, I’ve been working on a small three-day itinerary for one of my favorite places on this planet—Edinburgh. It will be available as a blog post and a downloadable PDF that you can save to your phone, computer, or even print out. Whatever suits you best!

Now, let’s get back to today’s travel story - my Inverness adventure.

Views of Inverness on one of my many walks

The capital of the Highlands—Inverness—is, in my opinion, an underrated gem. Here’s the story of my first visit.

On a very usual Scottish day — which means overcast skies with on & off rain of all kinds — I set up on a trip from Edinburgh to Inverness. A quick, yet VERY IMPORTANT  tip for you, my fellow traveler - always, ALWAYS double-check your route hours before departure for any changes due to railroad works or strikes. Because, as I discovered the night before my early morning departure, parts of the railway had been closed for maintenance… and I had no clue how I was going to get to my destination.

So, there I was, early in the morning (around 5:30-6AM), frantically wheeling my two suitcases around Waverley Station in search of someone who could point me towards a solution. Let me tell you—it was not easy to find information, also, I wasn’t exactly sure where to look. Panic was creeping in until the ticket booth finally opened.That’s when I found out my route had been slightly altered. The biggest change? I had to get off at a specific station and transfer to a bus. Not ideal, but at least I was still on my way to Inverness!

Walking up to Craig Phadrig

At first, I thought I missed my train when I arrived at the platform the station worker pointed me to.It looked like the same platform I had been to earlier—the one where my train was supposed to depart— but there was no train, as before. I stood there for at least 20 minutes, until it finally arrived and another worker assured me this was the right train. Once aboard, I was extremely vigilant of each station we passed…as…well…the names are a bit confusing for a non-Scottish mind. Which station it was… right now, I honestly don’t remember. But once I arrived and stepped off with a few others, I thought I was being smart by heading to the elevators to cross the tracks—everyone else seemed to be going a different way, longer way. What a mistake that was! The elevator was out of order 🤦🏼‍♀️.  And me and my two suitcases had to trek back, up the ramp in order to cross the tracks to get into the main hall of the station. By the time I got there, it seemed nearly empty, and once again, panic set in: “what if the bus leaves without me?! And where do I even find it?” 

Ah, but once again, a kind Scottish man asked me if I was heading to Inverness and pointed me toward the bus standing right outside the train station entrance/exit. The bus driver was so kind and funny, making jokes about whether I was bringing my whole life in those suitcases or bricks (yes, they were heavy 😁🧳). And off I went to my destination, greeted by snowy mountaintops.

That first hike in Craig Phadrig

Inverness welcomed me with cold rain, but I stuck to my usual travel habit—skipping the taxi and walking. After all, my GPS said it was only a 15-minute walk from the train station. Little did I know... The road situation in Inverness? Oh boy. Down a hill with two suitcases, then up a hill, then onto a narrow sidewalk, then across a road—and repeat. I was sweating. At one point, I seriously considered leaving one of my suitcases behind and coming back for it later. 😂

Once I was settled in and rested overnight, it was time to explore. My first adventure was hiking up a hill I saw at a distance the day before. After some research I found out it was called Craig Phadrig which translates to “rock of Patrick” or “Patrick’s rock”.

It was drizzling and I was so glad I bought a waterproof jacket before setting off to Scotland. It was quite a walk-up to get there! Over 40 minutes just to reach the entrance of the park. Of course, my journey took longer because I kept stopping to take in the views & snap photos. The views of the city over the rolling hills from above were absolutely breathtaking! The fog & light drizzle made it even more scenic, adding to the atmosphere. Even now, every time I go through these memories in my mind, they still take my breath away. 

Steep "stairs" on the trail to the top

By the way, if hiking isn’t your thing, you can drive up and park at one of the car parks near the entrance.

Craig Phadrig has two trails, and honestly, it doesn’t matter which one you take. I’d recommend going up one way and down the other—both offer stunning views over the Beauly Firth and Inverness. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a few small side paths off the main trail. They often lead to hidden spots with incredible views you might otherwise miss.

Little history of Craig Phadrig that I learned from the poster boards at the hill & a little research online: that Craig Phadrig was an ancient fort strategically placed during the Iron Age. It was later occupied by the Picts, and legend has it that King Bridei of the Picts met St. Columba here—where the saint supposedly converted the king to Christianity. But, as with many historical tales, nothing is certain.

Craig Phadrig from the banks of Beauly Firth

Here is what to expect: not an actual fort or any structure. Once you are there it looks like…well…a hill. Since it’s been abandoned since the 7th century, and over time, the earth has risen over its remains. So when you stand there, you’re literally walking on top of what’s left. But if you look closely, you can still make out the oval outline of the fort’s foundations.

I can’t wait to visit again! And I hope you make it there too—or at least live vicariously through this post.Happy travels!